andy goodman

3 Months in Baja: A Photo Snapshot

Hello everyone!

It’s been a while since our last blog post, and we’ve been busy since our adventures at RTR in Arizona last January!

We’ve spent the last three months in Baja, making our way slowly to the farthest point at Los Cabos and then back up again, doing exhaustive research on where to find the best tacos on the peninsula. (We have the reports and will be happy to share our findings at your request.)

IMG_8245

During our travels I tried a handful times to upload pictures to the blog, but the internet down there was virtually nonexistent so a photo could take around 40 minutes to upload and we’d get impatient and put the computer aside and head to the beach. We quickly fell into the rhythms of an outdoor lifestyle without the trappings of technology, and enjoyed the absence of the distraction.

IMG_8288

I have so much I want to share about our adventures in Baja, but for the time being I thought I’d post a whole bunch of photos—in mostly chronological order—to give a general sense of the trip. It was an experience of a lifetime, and I can’t wait to fill you in!

IMG_8720

IMG_8989

IMG_9028

IMG_9087

IMG_9525

IMG_9262

IMG_9315

IMG_9583

IMG_9726

IMG_9633

IMG_9846

IMG_9829

IMG_0027

IMG_0264

IMG_0288

IMG_0413

IMG_0527

IMG_0639

IMG_0650

IMG_0908

IMG_0977

IMG_0986

IMG_1329

IMG_1339

IMG_1357

IMG_1462

IMG_1631

IMG_1641

IMG_1768

IMG_E1980

IMG_2209 1

IMG_2310

IMG_2450 1

IMG_2551

IMG_2644

IMG_2683

IMG_2739

IMG_2745

IMG_2768

IMG_2902

IMG_2976

IMG_3007

IMG_3160

IMG_3181

IMG_3238

IMG_3247

IMG_3363

IMG_3471

IMG_3697.JPG

IMG_3765

IMG_3704

IMG_3564

So there you have it! Three months of fun, lots of sunshine, a thousand seaside frisbee sessions and maybe 500 tacos later, we’re back in the U.S. and ready for whatever the road brings our way.

(Hopefully more tacos.)

Scout Climbs a Volcano and Gracie Turns Brown: Christmas at Mojave National Preserve

I think the member of our pack who is most pleased that we’re taking our time through the wilds of the desert is Gracie. This girl does not love being stuck inside.

IMG_6214

In order to spend more time playing outside, we took I15 one small stretch at a time, enjoying the weather and the dispersed camping along the way. When we arrived in Mojave National Preserve, we hadn’t planned ahead to see what there was to do in the area, as is our usual way. So far it’s worked out brilliantly for us, and we didn’t share the concern we received from others when we told them we had no idea where we’d spend Christmas. We had decided months ago that in order to cover a little more ground this year, we’d skip the usual family gathering and just celebrate outside somewhere.

It was still about a week before Christmas when we found a great dispersed spot on the north side of Mojave National Preserve. The moment I opened the door, Gracie hedgehogged herself into a ball and just started rolling happily in the dirt.

IMG_6338

The next loosely-planned stop on our journey was going to be Joshua Tree National Park, so I kind of thought that would be the first time I’d see a “forest” of Joshua trees. Nope. We were surrounded!

IMG_6357

IMG_6344

I think that’s one of the things I love best about not planning ahead—we get to be surprised on a regular basis. And a back yard forest of desert trees was a really fun surprise!

IMG_6350

IMG_6355

IMG_6362

IMG_6371

I continuously had to remind myself that it was almost Christmas. We had our wreath hung on the spare tire on the back of the Turtle and our string of lights hung inside, but in this environment it felt deliciously more like summer vacation.

IMG_6346

IMG_6373

We’re reminded that it’s winter only by the early hour of the sunsets, which come too soon, but make up for it by being magnificent.

IMG_6376

IMG_6377

IMG_6382

IMG_6386

We watched the colors until they fell into darkness, then went inside to make dinner. At one point Andy looked out the windows up front and pointed out a strange light in the sky. At first we had no idea what we were looking at, but I was totally convinced it was a UFO while Andy was sure it was literally anything but that.

IMG_6390

Even I had to admit it looked maybe like a (human-made) rocket, but why would one be launching out here? I took a video so we could watch it later, then we went inside to look it up. Sure enough, a rocket had just launched in San Diego. If we had known, we probably would have driven out to go see it up close! But as it was, we were excited about yet another awesome surprise.

The next day we decided to drive right outside the preserve to pick up a few groceries since we loved this spot so much we thought we’d stick around longer than originally planned. We drove up to Baker and stopped first at this unexpected shop.

IMG_6401

IMG_6412

Then after picking up a few supplies, we headed back into the park, not realizing that the Turtle had relatives out here.

IMG_6431

I found a good-looking dispersed camp site on one of our apps farther south than our last overnight stay, near a lava tube that is apparently a big attraction for visitors of the preserve. We decided to stay the night there and visit the lava tube the next day. After slowly driving the washboarded dirt road to the site, we parked next to an inactive volcano, apparently one of many around the area.

IMG_6441

IMG_6444

Gracie wasted no time leaping outside to try on some of the new local dirt.

IMG_6586

I know cats like to take dust baths, but she takes it to another level. She loves it so much that she is turning semi-permanently brown! We just decided to say she’s a calico now.

The next day, we got our bikes out and rode with Scout by our sides down the bumpy road a few miles to the lava tube.

IMG_6449

IMG_6452

IMG_6467

IMG_6469

Scout waited outside for us under the shade of a Joshua tree with his water dish surrounded by rocks so he wouldn’t tip it over, and we went down into the lava tube.

IMG_6474

IMG_6475

IMG_6476

There are a few holes in the lava ceiling where the sun shines through, and we’d been given a tip by some friendly passers by the evening prior that light is at its best angle for around noon or 1 p.m. It was around noon when we arrived, so we hung out in the cave watching the light move and change.

IMG_6497

IMG_6512

Soon a strong narrow beam emerged.

IMG_6527

And it grew wider and brighter.

IMG_6562

IMG_6572

Another beam shot in from a hole in the main dome of the cave as well. It was magical.

IMG_6573

After the bumpy ride back to our spot, we were all feeling pretty spectacular about what a nice place this was to live for a bit. Even though cars drove by periodically, it felt like we had the entire desert to ourselves. Which was so exciting for our little adventure cat, who doesn’t get to go for walks when we’re in the city like Scout does. And all she wants in life is fresh outdoor air and a little space to explore.

IMG_6594

IMG_6601

She’s been loving the desert terrain so much that even when she comes inside she brings some with her.

IMG_6604

Every time she comes back in, it looks like this:

We’re not bothered by it, though, as we spend our fair share of time outside getting dirty too. It’s just part of the life. And so are breathtaking sunsets. It’s a give and take, really.

IMG_6606

IMG_6612

IMG_6625

IMG_6632

We realized as we watched the sun go down that it was Christmas Eve! I guess we know where we’ll be spending Christmas.

IMG_6646

On Christmas morning as we drank our coffee, we discussed how we wanted to spend the day. Scout chose to spend his morning trying to convince Gracie to throw the frisbee for him. He followed her around for some time, waiting for her to sit down and then gently tossing the frisbee to her just as he does with us.

IMG_6674

She wouldn’t go for it.

IMG_6679

So I did for a little while, as a consolation, even though we knew he’d be coming with us on the outing we decided on for the day: a hike up the volcano!

It was much, much more difficult than we’d anticipated. The entire face of the volcano was loose pebbles of lava rock, and it was so steep it required crawling on hands and feet. It was like being on a stair stepper. Every other step we’d hit a patch of gravel so loose it was a wonder it had stayed where it was in the first place, and we’d slide down a few feet. And because it was lava rock, when we’d grab out to catch ourselves, our hands would get sliced and shredded. It was exhausting, and since we had no intention of giving up, we took breaks every ten minutes or so to keep our energy and morale high enough to continue. I told Andy at one point, “I didn’t come here to climb to the almost-top of a volcano today.”

Here is the view from one of those breaks. See that little speck right off the road? That’s the Turtle! And at this point we were barely a third of the way up.

IMG_6682

IMG_6697

IMG_6699

Even though it was a challenge just perching ourselves on the hill (one that does not look even remotely as steep in the photos as it truly was), Scout tried the entire time to get us to throw sticks for him. The OCD is strong with this one.

 

IMG_6702

Here’s another view from a break. Can you spot the Turtle? We’re a little over two thirds of the way up at this point.

IMG_6705

IMG_6708

We scrambled and panted our way up this bizarre surface for much longer than we’d guessed we’d take making it up the 500′ climb. And then suddenly, we were at the top!

IMG_6711

We earned our ecstatic victory photo!

IMG_6718

IMG_6727

IMG_6745

We got great reception up there, so we called our families to wish them all a Merry Christmas, took some photos and admired the view of the desert far below.

IMG_6765

IMG_6769

Then we began the descent, which took like three minutes. We basically just walked down, each foot sinking down into the gravel and carrying us a few feet every step. It was like being a giant, which I now believe would be really fun, if it truly was anything like our speedy jaunt down the volcano.

IMG_6789

That evening’s sunset was another beautiful one. We’re getting spoiled out here.

IMG_6820

IMG_6828

We were quickly growing fond of this site, and decided to stick around for a few more days to relax and enjoy ourselves.

Gracie got right on the job.

IMG_6838

I spent the time finishing Andy’s belated Christmas gift, a tool holder for the driver’s side door, which took a little longer than expected since I had to hand stitch the whole thing. It turned out pretty nice, I think, and he loves the convenience it.

IMG_6840

Andy had his own project going as well, constructing a temporary custom storage box from cardboard, and when Gracie heard the word “project”, she quickly responded by inserting herself in it—literally.

IMG_6855.JPG

IMG_6848

Between the fun day trips and the relaxing time all to ourselves, we weren’t sure how many days longer we’d stick around and where we might be for New Years Eve, but we were in no hurry to ruin the surprise.

IMG_6864

A Sun Story: Canyonlands National Park

Both Andy and I grew up in Montana, and later lived in Seattle and Portland for the better part of our adult lives. This was mostly a coincidence, as we didn’t meet until we were both living in Portland, though early on we discovered that our paths had crossed many times over the years. We joke that our first concert together was The Pixies at Bumbershoot years ago, despite the fact that we didn’t know each other at that point.

We love Montana and the Pacific Northwest dearly, or we wouldn’t have stayed so long! But I think we can all agree that none of these places are known for an abundance of warmth and sunshine. Which is why, as we get farther and farther south, we’ve been amazed at the effect the sunshine has had on us. We’ve been infused with energy and feel so ready to take on the day each morning, and it only occurred to us after a few weeks in Utah that the sunshine may have something to do with it. We’re not used to all this vitamin D and the great feeling of sunshine warming our toes in their flip flops.

Luckily, we made it out to some seriously wide open spaces that can accommodate our ebullient sunshine-infused energy. After exploring Arches, we stayed one last night at our great BLM site north of Moab, then drove the short distance to Canyonlands National Park.

IMG_5885

IMG_5891

It’s big.

IMG_5892

The park is divided into four sections, with no continuous road connecting them due to the paths of the Green and Colorado rivers.

canyonlands-map.jpg

The districts are:

  • Island in the Sky
  • The Needles
  • The Maze
  • The Rivers

They each have separate entrance points and every area offers a unique park experience. We were closest to the Island in the Sky, which is one of the more developed portions of the park, with hiking trails and a designated campground.

Right away we decided to drive straight through to the end of the road, at Grand View Point.

IMG_5896

IMG_5894

There’s an overlook with an incredible view, and an easy walking trail that follows the rim of the Island in the Sky for about a mile out one way.

IMG_5895

IMG_5897

IMG_5908

IMG_5909

The viewpoint at the end of the trail is 360 breathtaking degrees of, well, canyonlands! It’s hard to grasp the scale of it.

IMG_5936

IMG_5914 1

IMG_5912

IMG_5920 1

IMG_5923 1

On the walk back we wandered off the main trail to check out the landscape a little farther from the rim. It’s a great playground, and we ran and climbed around the smooth rock formations under the sunshine.

IMG_5939

IMG_5948

IMG_5951

IMG_5959

When we got back to the Turtle, the sun was beginning to go down. We drove out to the Green River Overlook to watch it slide like melting butter across the rolling hills below.

IMG_5961

The view in the other direction wasn’t bad either! The saturated evening sun lit the rocks and bushes, painting everything in rich golds.

IMG_5971

IMG_5973

Near the Green River Overlook is the Willow Flat Campground, where we decided to stay for the night. There’s a lot of room to walk around there too, so we took Scout out to explore while we watched the rocks change colors. (As we walked he was on his leash per park rules, but I liked the backdrop so I took it off for the photo. He’s getting a lot better at having his picture taken and didn’t move an inch the whole time. Good boy!)

IMG_5989

IMG_5999

The sunset was as grand and spectacular as the canyon views.

IMG_6013

IMG_6015

IMG_6018

IMG_6014

The next morning we got up before the sun rose to walk up to Mesa Arch, which the ranger recommended we see at sunrise. Apparently it’s the most photographed spot in the park, as the rising sun illuminates the underside of the arch beautifully.

He was right!

IMG_6038

IMG_6057

We drove around the park afterwards as we drank our coffee and looked at the map to find one more hike before leaving. We decided on Whale Rock, which was a moderate hike with a cool name. I loved this hike.

IMG_6085

The views were expansive from way up on the huge smooth rock dome that actually did feel like walking on a whale’s back. We played with shadows in the crisp morning light and tried not to blow off the edge as the wind picked up.

IMG_6083

We left the park glowing with happiness and moved west until we reached a dispersed camp area outside St. George. Scout and Gracie were ready to get out and play too, and this spot was perfect for us all to hop out and run around.

IMG_6140.JPG

I looked out the back window after the animals had been out for a bit and caught them in a sweet moment.

IMG_6157

IMG_6159

I guess all this sunshine is really working wonders for everyone! I think we’ll stay down here a while.

IMG_6139 1.JPG

Catching Some Rays at Arches National Park

Living in a van comes with its own set of challenges, which are made increasingly more difficult when the weather is freezing. We’ve spent many months living in icy climates in the Turtle, and while the learning experience was necessary and helpful, we’re ready to put the cold temperatures behind us for a while. Everything is so much simpler in the sunshine. We don’t have to worry about tanks and water lines freezing, running out of propane so quickly, and water and dump facilities closing for the season. We don’t have to insulate the windows, making the interior a cave without a view. Andy doesn’t have to do maintenance under the hood with gloves on. Everything just works better in warm weather.

IMG_5444

We discussed this while we were up in Alaska, dreaming up ideas and plans for the winter. Last winter we spent most of our time in the snow, and this winter we decided we’d be crazy not to follow the other snowbirds down south to enjoy a little sunshine!

As we left the snowy weather behind us in Spearfish, we decided to break our self-imposed rule to not travel more than a few hours a day in order to get out of the cold as soon as possible. We made quick time through a few states and finally slowed down once we hit sunshine in Utah. We could hardly believe it was December as we drove out to some BLM land outside of Moab and parked the Turtle in the sunny desert.

IMG_5456

IMG_5476

Scout and Gracie were pretty pleased too. One of Gracie’s favorite pastimes is rolling in the dirt, and she got right to it. That little beast was so covered in dirt she didn’t even look like the same cat. Scout and I played obstacle course Frisbee between the grasses and shrubs and ran around the flat landscape. Andy got his tools out and turned some wrenches under the Turtle. Everyone was feeling spectacular.

IMG_5477

IMG_5486

The best part was that we were this joyful and had only made it to our campsite. We still had a bunch of places to explore just down the road from us.

The first was Arches National Park. Yay!

IMG_5515

IMG_5502

IMG_5540

Arches contains more than 2,000 natural arches, many of which are visible by car if you’re making a quick trip, and the rest can be seen along the myriad hiking trails that could easily occupy a few days in the park.

The first day we spent time in Moab before going to the park, resupplying and running errands, so we just popped into Arches as the sun was descending to drive through and see a few things before it got dark. Among other great rock formations, we saw the Three Gossips, Balanced Rock, and walked the short distance to the upper viewpoint where you can see Delicate Arch from afar. (That’s the iconic one you always see in pictures of Arches and on the Utah license plates.)

IMG_5543

IMG_5555

IMG_5585

IMG_5603

We went about halfway in, and after the sun went down we drove back north to our wonderful campsite on Willow Springs Road for the night.

IMG_5632

The next day we arrived earlier so we could spend the day in the park.

IMG_5641

IMG_5648

First we took the very short walk back through tall rock walls to see Hidden Arch.

IMG_5658

IMG_5667

It seemed like the kind of place someone might pose like this, so I did.

IMG_5693

Then we drove to the end of the road at Devil’s Garden Trailhead and walked in to see Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch. There were a bunch more to see farther down the trail, but that hike can take a full day and we definitely wanted to do the 2-hour hike to Delicate Arch. It’s famous!

IMG_5705

IMG_5708

IMG_5712

IMG_5727

IMG_5754

The Delicate Arch trail is a lot of fun, and I’d go on that hike even if there wasn’t a gorgeous natural formation to see at the end. At first it’s a just a nice walk on a dirt trail surrounded by neat rocks and a pretty view.

IMG_5757

Then midway through the hike, the trail suddenly stops at a huge smooth rock dome that you walk up-up-up and over, with incredible views from the top! Somehow, the only pictures I took faced away from the view. No one knows why.

IMG_5759

IMG_5766

Once you reach the top, you walk through little areas of desert bushes and juniper trees for a bit.

IMG_5768 1

And suddenly you turn the corner and are walking on a rock path winding around a huge sandstone wall on your right. Andy climbed right up the side of it to peer through the little arch at the top, so I followed.

IMG_5770

IMG_5773

And what a view!

It wasn’t very busy that day, so by the time we walked over to the arch nobody was photographing it and we got to take our time getting some nice pictures.

IMG_5795

IMG_5806

IMG_5823

On our way back we took a side trail to go see some petroglyphs.

IMG_5834

As the sun began to set, we made one last stop at Double Arch. It was our favorite of the day! We climbed up a bit until we were underneath the arches, lay down on the ground and watched the shadows move across the rocks until dusk.

IMG_5847

IMG_5868

A quick trip to Moab Brewery rounded out the day perfectly, and soon we were back at our Willow Springs site. It was completely dark by then, but still warm enough to spend a little time outside before going back in for the night. Happily tired from a day full of hiking, we could just walk in and put our feet up. No insulating, no buttoning up to be done, no wet clothes to hang, no layers to put away.

It feels like summertime in the desert, and the living is easy.

All Kinds of Parties: Billings & Bozeman, MT

As October neared its end, we found ourselves back in Bozeman, MT to visit my family as we continued our journey south. It’s still beautiful there!

IMG_4395

IMG_4398

IMG_4419

The weekend before Halloween, we drove over to Billings to spend the weekend with our good friends Blake and Martha. (Martha is taking this photo, so she is not pictured. Sorry Martha.)

IMG_4553

We were excited to have time this year to make Halloween costumes, and while we stayed with Blake and Martha we’d planned to dress up and go out with some friends. Andy was a steampunk mad scientist, and after he put the outfit on I realized that this isn’t too far a cry from his real persona.

IMG_4476

I was a steampunk mechanic, and the moment I put on the bustle I’d made (from curtains at Goodwill) I decided it was the one thing that’s always been missing from my daily wardrobe.

IMG_4479

IMG_4550

Once the group arrived at Blake and Martha’s, Martha unveiled the snacks that she had prepared (with some help from Andy and Blake, they’ll want you to know). Aren’t they adorable?

IMG_4482

And isn’t the group adorable?

Halloween.jpg

Off we went to a local pub downtown, where the Halloween party was just beginning. (Wonder Woman did not join us on this portion of the outing.)

IMG_4505

IMG_4500

IMG_4489

IMG_4540

IMG_4516

We had a blast! It was a fun night, and a super-fun weekend hanging out with good friends. We watched a couple World Series games, ate some Chalet Market sandwiches (my favorite), Blake, Andy and Harper carved pumpkins. . .

IMG_6144 1.JPG

And then suddenly Blake had to go back to work. BOOOOO!

IMG_E4493.JPG

He was probably relieved.

It was still sunny in Billings when we pulled away.

IMG_4474

And no sooner were we in Bozeman than the snow began to fall.

IMG_4613

Though Gracie enjoys snow as much as any adventure cat, she preferred my mom’s warm bed. And when it wasn’t available, she’d wait outside the door for her turn.

IMG_4605

The rest of us enjoyed playing outside.

IMG_4598

IMG_4617

IMG_4622

IMG_4624

IMG_4632

IMG_4649

IMG_4651

Then we’d come back inside to visit Gracie.

IMG_4390

The last time we visited Bozeman, we made good use of my mom’s kitchen and cooked up a number of tasty feasts for the three of us. Andy and I both love to cook, and do quite well with our three small burners, two pots, one small pan, and limited counter space in the Turtle. (We had authentic Pho while cozied up inside our tiny house in Deadhorse! It was pretty fancy.) But a complete kitchen with lots of space and a full sized oven is a treat we can’t resist. Andy had his heart set on cooking a turkey, and if you’re going to cook a turkey, you may as well make stuffing, and if you’re going to make stuffing, you ought to make mashed potatoes and gravy and also bake a pie, right?

It was weeks until Thanksgiving, but it seemed like the plan was shaping up into a real party. We christened it Fall Feastival, and invited my sister’s family and a few friends over, and Andy spent all day carefully preparing the turkey.

IMG_4678

IMG_4685

Meanwhile, Clive and Scout and I played in the snow. That boy can really throw a frisbee, even with winter gloves on. Scout was very impressed.

IMG_4689

My sister and I contributed to the meal a bit, but mainly it was Andy’s show and he was happy to have full reign over the kitchen. He made stuffing and gravy so good we all considered drinking it straight out of mugs.

IMG_4692

IMG_4702

It was a genuine feast! The turkey was without a doubt the best I’d ever had. Andy really knocked it out of the park! I made a pumpkin pie cheesecake and hot chocolate for dessert, just in case we didn’t feel we’d spoiled ourselves enough already.

IMG_4711

Afterwards we played a little Pin the Tail on the Turkey, which Liam, Clive, and Bella all helped put together.

IMG_4716

IMG_4719

IMG_4723

IMG_6145 1.JPG

 

 

 

IMG_4738

It was a wonderful celebration! Maybe the First Annual? Any excuse for a feast.

The Fall Feastival marked the end of our visit to Bozeman, so on we traveled toward our next stop: Spearfish, South Dakota. It’s always so hard to leave my people, but we’re grateful to see them as often as we do these days.

I mean, if we didn’t live in the Turtle, I may have never seen this work of art:

IMG_4387

Liam made The Eye of Sauron’s girlfriend.

Like I said—my people.