Badlands

A Busy Few Weeks: The VLA, ABQ, Boise, The Bisti Badlands, Four Corners, & Mesa Verde NP

Our current location is generally a mystery to anyone trying to keep track of us—including us—mostly due to the fact that we’re so busy having fun that I forget how long it’s been since I last updated the blog or Instagram! I promise that by the end of the next post both you and I will be completely caught up.

As I type this, I’m sitting at an adorable cafe and sweets shop in a town that, I announced immediately before consulting anyone else in the Turtle, we will one day live, even if just for a season. This place is a dream. But we’ll get to that next time. We have so much to cover right now!

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We left our last story outside the Very Large Array near Socorro, NM, having a delicious evening treat of a pie sampler from Pie Town. We found a great pull-out to stay the night just a few minutes from the VLA. That night before bed, we watched Contact with a view of the VLA right outside our window! It was awesome. In the movie, the VLA plays a prominent role in Jodie Foster’s research and makes a really dramatic background. And it’s just as impressive in person.

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The VLA is an astronomical radio observatory made up of 27 antennas that are each 82′ in diameter. They’ve helped with the investigation of black holes, quasars, pulsars, planets, and loads more. It’s astonishing to see them up close.

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(Not quite sure what I was up to in this photo, but it’s the only one I’ve got, so you’re stuck with my unexplainable dance number.)

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After getting our science on, we made our way back to Albuquerque where I had a flight to catch in a few days to Boise to visit my girlfriends Beth and Lexie.

But first, Andy and I had a mission: to get poolside as soon as possible. I’m not sure how we got the idea in our heads, but suddenly we couldn’t live without a swim. So we headed to the only RV park in Albuquerque that had their pool open before Memorial Day—American RV Park.

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We came for the pool and stayed for the lovely park, yummy continental breakfast, clean showers and laundromat, and beyond-friendly staff. We really did stay another day. It’s a great park that I can’t recommend highly enough! We realized that it had been over a year since we had stayed in an RV park, which was fun because we’ve really gotten the hang of boondocking and have saved lots of money by not going to parks unless we need to take advantage of their amenities. Turtle power!

We stayed two nights, and the next day I left this guy:

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To hang out with these guys:

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It was a bunch of fun. We painted the town red, and even got dressed up to go watch the Kentucky Derby.

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After a whirlwind few days, I was back in Albuquerque and the four of us were back on the road. Andy and I went to a fantastic mining museum in Grants called the New Mexico Mining Museum, which has a replica uranium mine underground. The man at the front desk had worked in mining for about 35 years, and had worked his way up from the bottom to be the head of his mine and even got an award for safety, with the longest time without a death in the mine or serious injuries. He had lots of information, was adorable, and gave me a goldstone to remember the mine by.

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Outside of Grants, we stayed at the Joe Skeen campground near El Malpais.

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I was happy to be reunited with this guy:

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And this guy:

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And this guy:

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We drove to the Bisti Badlands wilderness, where you can stay overnight in the parking area for free! It was especially appreciated that we got to stay after we climbed for hours over the crazy hills that changed in appearance every few minutes. It felt like a walking tour of 10 different planets.

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It was a hot day, and when we got back to the parking lot, we relaxed in our chairs and read books with Scout and Gracie. Gracie has become a real champ with her harness and leash these days. I think she’s figured out that sometimes it’s her only ticket outside, so she wears it without any problem, and even comes to my feet meowing when she hears me get it out.

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The next day we made it to Four Corners with beautiful skies above us.

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Then we drove on toward Mesa Verde National Park. The landscape on the way to the park was a destination unto itself. I swear this is not a painting.

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In the last year, we’ve been to two other cliff dwellings sites: Bandelier NM and Gila Cliff Dwellings NM. We really enjoyed both, but agreed once we made it to Mesa Verde that this is our favorite site so far.

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In the park are 600 beautifully preserved cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Pueblo people, many of which you can tour or see clearly from various vistas. Depending on the site, the tours are just $5 or $10 each, which gets you 1-2 hours of information and a walk right through the dwellings. You can see petroglyphs and pictographs, the different styles of construction each group used, and the actual tools they used to grind corn and make food. And the views are so vast and unreal that we both said more than once that we’d pay just to hike the trails on the mesa! There are also self-guided tours you can take, so we did all of those too.

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Our second day there, as we parked at Balcony House for our tour we noticed another van that could be the Turtle’s long-lost cousin, so we parked by it as we often do when we see a van we like. After traveling around for the last year and a half, we’ve found that we can usually tell by someone’s van if they are kindred spirits, and our track record is pretty good so far. This time was no exception! We ran into Gary and Kiki as we returned from our tour, and found out that they’re just starting out on their full-time vandwelling adventure (though they’ve already been on many, many adventures of other sorts). We’d all already purchased tickets for the same tour the following day, so we got to hang out even more during the Long House tour.

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We super enjoyed getting to know you guys, and I’m certain that our paths will cross down the road. (When they do, we’ll let you know what Turtle theme song we came up with; hopefully one as cool as Birdy’s.) You guys were a pleasure to hang out with. Stay in touch! 🙂

After the tour, we did a quick 6-mile loop on top of the mesa to check out the other cliff dwelling overlooks.

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We would have loved to stay and visit (both the park and the new friends) longer, but the storm clouds were rolling in and the skies were getting darker. Our first rule of overlanding is “Never Drive at Night”, which is comparable to driving in terrible weather, so we hit the road to make it to Durango, CO to find a spot before the weather hit.

We hung out in Durango for the evening, a town that I already loved and knew Andy would too. The weather was unfortunate, with frigid winds and constant cloud cover, but we had a great time anyway. If you can involve pizza in the plans, Andy is a happy camper.

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If you can also include a free trip to the coolest railroad museum ever, Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum, he will be even happier.

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And if you really want to make his day, cap it all off with a little performance testing at the highest altitudes the Turtle has ever attempted. . .

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Which, unbeknownst to us, was the next leg of the trip. And one that would bring us to where I sit now, in my new very favorite town of all time! But that’s up next.

 

Livin’ By A Lake: Why We Heartily Endorse Vandwelling

When we were moving out of our house in Portland and into the Turtle, our friends Rhema and Lisa gifted us a wonderful going-away gift: Lisa’s Sensational Pickled Carrots. She’d popped open a jar during a BBQ at their place a few months prior, and I forgot to eat most of my dinner because I was too busy going back for sevenths and eighths of those carrots! I agree with you that pickled carrots sound different, but I promise, they’re super-duper awesome. Lisa’s crazy in the kitchen.

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Lisa and Andy whipped up some serious turkey and stuffing last Thanksgiving.
Rhema and I helped by making sure the video games were played. 

The only bummer was that since she’d just canned them, we had to wait six whole months before we could eat them! So we put them in a box and labeled it “Do not open until April 21st, 2016.” Before sealing up the box, I thought it would be fun for us to write a letter to our future selves, predicting where we’d be when we opened the box. So we wrote our individual thoughts down, dropped them in, and taped that baby up.

As the date approached, we thought it would be fun to open the carrots when we were somewhere really neat. So as we approached Badlands, we decided that was it. That worked great for me, since I was too excited to wait any longer!

They were SO GOOD. What a fun going-away gift! It was a tasty treat that reminded us of Lisa and Rhema and the fun times in John’s Landing. We miss you guys!

After our snack, we opened up the paper with our predictions. Interestingly, without consulting one another, we both wrote that we’d probably be somewhere in Utah! I suppose because there are so many great parks around there, and we’re both so excited to spend time in that part of the U.S. But in order to have made it that far, we’d have to be covering ground at a much quicker rate than we are currently traveling.

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This is more the speed we’re interested in.

It was a moment of revelation and reflection for us; one that made us really appreciate an aspect of this lifestyle that we worked so hard to achieve. We wanted to be able to slow down and really enjoy each day of our lives, spending less time paying bills for a house we’re never around because we’re busy at work to pay the bills! Now we get to live virtually anywhere we like, for as long as we like. Unlike vacation time, we don’t feel stressed out trying to fit in all the fun right now. We can take our time and explore a spot at our leisure, take an extra day to do nothing if we choose, and see more of any area that interests us.

This is why we currently live by a lake. (We got here meaning to stay a few days, and we now plan to stay another week, or until this crazy 80-90 degree weather leaves!)

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And this is also why we emphatically hope that people who have the capability to try this lifestyle out will do it! One of the reasons we decided to blog about our adventures was to encourage and support fellow adventure-seekers to see that it’s possible, and more than that, it’s the best decision we’ve ever made. We’re living much more inexpensively, efficiently, thoughtfully, and healthfully. There’s a daily dose of adverbs for ya! Every day is a new experience and just a ton of fun (with a fair amount of work and effort involved, of course). We keep asking ourselves why it took us this long to figure this out! Andy always says he feels like we’re cheating somehow. 🙂

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Let me also acknowledge that I totally get that it’s not a possibility for everyone, and my intention is not to alienate those who aren’t able to make such a drastic life change. And according to lots of people we’ve met along the way, not everyone even wants this life! We get that too. It was hard work getting here, and can still be hard from time to time.

Our hope is that the blog can be both an endorsement for people thinking about this lifestyle, and also just a way to stay in touch with our friends, family, and other tiny house and travel enthusiasts, sharing what we’re up to for all interested parties. I know that for people with kids, it’s a much more complicated undertaking (though not impossible; we’ve met families living on the road!). I also know that we’re fortunate that both of us are able to work remotely, and that’s not true for all professions.

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A lunch break. Since I’m the only one in this photo, I’ll just go ahead and take credit for the lot.

But we have met a whole bunch of people who have always dreamed of becoming vandwellers or full-time RV’ers, and who could potentially take the plunge, but are still on the fence. When we started out, we had a hard time finding online resources of people who were doing something similar to what we had in mind. So if that’s the case for you, please follow along with us for tips on what’s working for us, or feel free to send us a message and we’ll do what we can to help you along the way! It’s a huge undertaking, but the end result is worth all the hard work. I mean, we get to live by a lake, for free!

For those just following along to see where we ended up and what we’re doing there, here’s a quick photo summary of what we’ve been up to for the last week.

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And if you’re wishing for greater detail on how Scout and Gracie are doing, just take these photos of Scout swimming for sticks and Gracie pouncing on buggies, repeat them to infinity, and you’ll have an idea of how they’re spending their days by the lake. Happy days for our best little friends. Happy days for us.

Bring On The Badlands!

Hello there! I’m here today to help you plan your next trip. For quality purposes, we just tried it out for you, and we can say with confidence that you are going to LOVE it.

It’s a week-long stay in Badlands National Park!

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Ok, you don’t have to go, but it’s absolutely our favorite place so far, and I highly recommend it! 🙂 Neither of us had ever been, and we both had no idea what to expect. We were completely floored by how beautiful this park is. We often weren’t even able to come up with words for it; we just kept laughing out loud with happiness and complete awe!

We drove into the park from Scenic, SD on Sage Creek Road to Sage Creek Campground. It’s a free primitive campground (that’s the term, though I figure if it has toilets and garbage cans, it’s pretty fancy) and it’s outside the portion of the park with all the iconic formations. It really doesn’t get super Badlands-y until the point where Hwy 240 drops into the park.

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There are lots of spots to park and set up tents, and though the days were quiet, every evening it was full and bustling, with people playing frisbee, hiking the hills and picnicking. We kept wondering when Dave Matthews was going to show up and start the show.

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We decided to stay at the site for four days, as we got a strong enough wifi signal through our hot spot for Andy to log into work. What an office, huh?

If you do end up with extra time in Badlands, this is a great spot! Ok, here’s what you can do, if you want to take me up on my offer to be your trip planner. There are trails in every direction with magnificent views at the top of every hill. Hike as many as you can.

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You can add your own cairn to the collection at the top of the nearest hill. . .

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And sit at the top of the world and enjoy the view.

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You will likely get a taste of the powerful evening weather the Badlands can conjure up! While it’s sunny and hot all day (in May, anyway), towards the end of the day, it gets wild.

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Oh, and you will definitely see bison. They graze right through the camp for hours every day!

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At one point, we heard a shriek, and our neighbor came racing back to her boyfriend at top speed, breathlessly giggling about the buffalo standing right outside the bathroom door as she exited. They’re not worried about us (humans) one bit.

All of our neighbors were great while we stayed at Sage Creek! Maybe you will be lucky enough to camp next to a fun outgoing couple who is on a long trek in the US before moving back to Holland. Maybe they will also gift you a map to scratch off the states you travel through. So nice of them.

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These scratched off areas are limited to where the Turtle has been, of course. We’re excited to scratch off more! But our goal is to take our time and really experience the places we stay. Which was really easy this week. We knew we loved Badlands already, but then we drove to the Pinnacles Overlook.

Oh, wait! We didn’t do that yet. We were planning to drive there, but the Rim Road access was closed. So we diverted up to Wall to check out the famous Wall Drug. And holy cow! I’ll let Bill Bryson sum it up for me. “It’s an awful place, one of the world’s tackiest tourist traps, but I loved it and I won’t have a word said against it.” Yep!

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I loved every weird minute we were there. They allow RV’s to park in the lot down the hill for free, so we did that, and then drove back into the park the next day via the Pinnacles Overlook entrance.

Again, holy cow.

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There are loads of hikes you can take in the park, each with a very different landscape to explore.

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We started with Window Trail, a super-short walk to a stunning viewpoint:

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Then we played on the giant playground next to the parking lot.

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And then we hiked Door Trail. This one is also fairly short, but can take as long as you want it to take, since it’s a wide open expanse of peaks and valleys to climb around on. We liked it so much we came back on our last day to sit at the end of the hike and have a picnic, sketch and read books.

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After leaving Door Trail, we hiked up Notch Trail. This one has an incredible view of the geologic slump and the Cedar Pass campground, and the hike itself feels like a Star Trek set!

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We stayed a few nights at the Cedar Pass Campground, which is a pay site, but totally worth every penny! It’s bordered by the peaks, which are so beautiful to see in both the morning and evening sun.

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The next day, we hiked up Saddle Pass (steep and slippery!) to Medicine Root Trail and then back on a portion of Castle Trail. It’s about 4 miles of flat, picturesque views and takes you through the prairie and through some of the crazy formations.

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We were so happy during our entire time in Badlands! It’s other-worldly, and so very relaxing.

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Scout liked it quite a bit too! But if he was your travel planner, he’d encourage you to take a driving tour of Badlands, see the sights, and then leave the park to stay somewhere that dogs can be off leash and play frisbee!

We’ve compromised with him, and after our glorious, sunny, and exhilarating week in Badlands, we’ve moved along to Angostura Reservoir. He gets his own waterfront frisbee spot, so his week of leashed walks will soon be forgiven.

I hope you enjoy your stay at Badlands as much we did! If you follow the travel plan I’ve laid out for you, I don’t see how you can go wrong. 🙂