E350

Let’s Refurbish a Van – Part 8: Hood Scoops (By Andy)

A post by Andy

{Modified the title theme some. We think of ourselves much more as a big van than a small RV. I now want to start prefacing this and future posts to be more representative of our self-image.}

So, to the meat of the subject. I just finished our hood scoops! Why did I make hood scoops? Well, for one, they look pretty cool and I needed a prominent place to put my new go-fast emblems that I ordered from Amazon.

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Mainly, we are trying to get as much power out of the engine so we can get our heavy old self up the high steep hills. In that vein, I have been playing with the spark timing, carb mixture, and intake airflow. By tweaking and adjusting these parameters we are working to get the most power and efficiency out of our old engine. Specifically, advancing the timing can get the engine to produce more power, but too much spark advance causes engine problems—pinging and preignition. If the engine is cooler, one can run with more advance. Another way to look at it is that with a given timing advance, if the engine and intake air get hotter, then the timing is too far advanced.

Maybe a side note about my “go-fast” emblems. Car companies try to sell cars. Sometime fancy cars come with racing stripes, cool graphics, and badges on the side about engine stuff. A joke among car people is the question “How much horsepower do the stripes add?” The answer is, of course, none. But… they do look cool. Look around, they are everywhere: M3, AMG, Hemi, 440, HiPo. The only thing the badge or stripes could actually do is add an immeasurably small increase in drag, or some unneeded paint weight. They are simply for the people in the car next to you. All the same, they look sporty, so I bought some that state the displacement of our engine and say it is “High Performance”. What I’m saying here is they do nothing, but they truly do look great!

So, I wanted more air to get in and out of the engine compartment to cool the engine, and have the air flowing into the air cleaner be as cool (and dense) as possible. To make sure I had an understanding of the pre-hood-scoop environment, I first taped the probe end of my digital temperature gauge to the air cleaner. Over a few weeks in different driving conditions and different altitudes, we took notes about the temperature measurements of the air cleaner and air filter. You can see the wire to the probe, and the tape holding it in one location.

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Overall, we are in the 150º–160ºF range under the hood after the engine gets warmed up and when the ambient temperature is in the 70º–80ºF range. So, to get more outside air in and more inside air out we need some kind of venting. I looked online, and $50+ plastic vents and scoops can be found, but they were not really van-sized, and seem flimsy. Metal ones can also be found, but are more expensive, and again, really don’t fit. Apparently there is an untapped market of people who want to mod 1985 Ford vans! (Investors be wary—the market may be small.) I finally hit on the idea that rectangle cake pans are about the size I wanted, and they are inexpensive, and they are made of metal designed to withstand 500ºF+. Going with this thought, while we were camping in El Malpais National Monument, I made some cake pan-sized cardboard mockups and spray painted them with a blue that I had.

Test fitting…

I thought that looked good, so a few days later when we were in a town, we got some cake pans.

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One morning, a few weeks later, when we where camping at the Great Salt Lake, I got out the pans, tin snips, sandpaper, and primer, and got to work remaking our sweet cake pans into even sweeter performance hood scoops (please note the word play).

Here they are.

Test fitting.

We stashed them away for a bit and traveled onward. Another week later we had a free day while visiting our friends the Higdems in Kimberly, ID. I measured, moved, marked, measured, and measured and marked again. Then I started drilling holes in the hood.

Lots of little holes now!

After fitting and drilling the mounting holes, I now knew what piece of the hood (bonnet, for any Brits out there) to cut out. Out with the jig saw.

Another side note here: When putting the Turtle together, we set ourselves up with a few DeWalt cordless tools and the battery charger that plugs into a 12V cigarette lighter. The tool charger is now wired to our solar-charged batteries, so we are using the sun’s energy to drill, cut, and modify our hood. It feels fun to know that when working on projects such as this!

For the final install, I put down a small bead of RTV sealant, aligned the scoops, and screwed in the 6 screws per scoop that I had already pre-drilled. After the RTV cured a bit, I got out our boat paint and went at it.

Included above is, obviously, a photo of what Scout and Gracie were doing at the time. A few days later, at Dave and Ryann’s place, I added more RTV to smooth the transition and put on more paint to finish it all off.

All finished now, after the last painting and with the great go-fast badges installed.

We should call this the conclusions section of the post, for you science people out there. Well, they have been on now for a week, and we don’t move fast, so we have only driven a few hundred miles. We will need to collect more data, but so far the maximum under-hood temperature we have seen in 135ºF, and most of the time it has been in the 100º-120ºF range (and we are actually in hotter weather than when we took our non-hood scoop measurements). We have also driven through crazy heavy rain and, as expected and hoped for, the small amount of water that enters through the scoops has no adverse effects on the engine. Generally, a pretty solid success, and I have since advanced the ignition timing just a bit with no pinging.

Oh, maybe a cost breakdown. The sum total of the cake pans, primer, quantity of screws, RTV, and paint used is less than $20. The go-fast badges were $11 each. Dave suggests I sell it as “The whole project was less than 45 dollars.” I think I shall adopt that tract!

All that for less than 45 dollars!!!

Let’s Refurbish a Van – Part 5: Suspension (By Andy)

A post by Andy.

{Note: The work detailed in this post was completed over the summer of 2015, before we moved into the Turtle. I am just getting the time to write the post now.}

We wanted a little more ground clearance, fender and frame spacing for the taller tires, and a good, safe ride. We initially hoped to find an off-the-shelf lift kit. . . no soap. People make them for Ford trucks and Broncos, nothing for 80’s vans. I suppose that makes sense; the van market must be pretty small. So I guess we’ll just have to design and install a complete suspension overhaul and customization ourselves. This is where we started…

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In the front we have what Ford calls a twin I-beam suspension with what I infer is an aftermarket sway bar, and the rear is just a simple leaf spring configuration, though there are functional aftermarket Firestone airbags that have been added.

Let’s address the rear first; that is comparatively easy. We found some 2″ lift blocks from Action Van (http://www.actionvansuspension.com), that fit between the axle and leaf spring. Action Van actually makes full lift kits, but only for ’92 and newer Ford vans. Lucky, the rear suspension was the same, so we were able to use their blocks for the back.

With some breaker bars on the end of the socket wrench and a little groaning, the blocks were pretty easy to install. Lots of jacks and heavy-duty jack stands were employed in this step! Here is a poor photo of the suspension when I was starting the modification.

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Here is a photo of the installed blocks. Always remember that it is a good idea to drive a bit and then retorque all the bolts for suspension components after making changes- things can settle under the vibration.

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After adding the lift blocks, the rear airbags were adjusted by cutting, drilling, and painting 2″spacers from hollow square tubing and bolting into place between the axle and bottom of the air bags with new grade 8 hardware. Sorry for the bad photos (at the time, the important thing was to get stuff done, so the documentation suffered), but what you can see in the following is the original airbags and the blocks and hardware cut, drilled, and painted.

And a current photo of the final installed version- a little dirty, as we have been trekking about for a little over a year now.

Pretty straight-forward modification, and after a few thousand of miles everything is very solid.

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Now the front suspension. The modifications needed were: 1) taller coil springs 2) adding air bags 3) fitting the new shocks 4) dropping the sway bar 5) dropping all 4 I-beam pivot points 6) replacing all the suspension bushings in the process.

I was able to find taller MOOG coil springs and front airbags, cranked everything apart, and got those pieces installed.

You can see that at this point with the added spring height but no change to any of the I-beam pivot points, the camber is extreme.

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The next step was to remove the suspension mounts. This was a true pain, as there were many frame rivets to remove. Depending on the accessability, I would drill, grind, hammer, cold chisel, or simply swear at for long enough to remove. I would consider it a solid success if I came home from work, spent all evening, and got only one removed. I blocked it out, but there were somewhere between 16 and 20. Anyway, after getting the pivot points removed, I made some drawings describing the desired changes needed to drop the pivot points 2″ lower, then took the parts to a fabricator. I weld myself, and made the grill guard, and all other metal modifications on the Turtle, but I wanted really great welds on these parts, so we paid to have someone with more skills do the modification. Plus, it was pretty darn magical to just drop the parts off and pick up the finished pieces a few weeks later. So, some of the suspension pieces back from the welder:

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Painting, almost ready to install. I had ordered new MOOG bushings for all the pivot points, so these were installed at this point too.

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Except for reusing a few special Ford bolts, the bolts and frame rivet locations were replaced with 1/2″ grade 8 hardware. Some current pictures of the completed front suspension.

Here is a photo of the dropped sway bar pivots with the new greasable bushings installed, again, everything is grade 8 hardware. I never buy anything else (except maybe stainless for chassis fixturing or the interior).

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New Bilstein shocks were ordered for all four corners. The stock fit for the rear has enough travel to handle the 2″ lift, so we got the heavy-duty RV ones, and that was easy. We had to calculate the new front geometry to size the front, and went extra fancy with the front shocks and got an external reservoir setup. They look cool! (I ordered them from shockwarehouse.com, part number 25-177480 and 24-184663.)

Here is the front suspension a year into our travels. I was replacing the brake pads, so I took the opportunity to clean everything up, and also paint the hub with Rustoleum. We have had no problems with the suspension thus far.

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The lift was added to enable us to have the taller tires, and to have more ground clearance. There have already been a number of cases where we figure we would have likely damaged something on the underside if we did not have the clearance we have. Additionally, with the clearance and narrow tires, we have made it through some pretty deep snow without problems. It has proven to be a successful modification. Plus, it makes the Turtle look cool!