waterfall

The Road to Alaska – Part 5: Yukon! Valdez! Gracie Cleans Her Tail!

Everything you’ve heard about the drive to Alaska is true.

Ok, wait.

I guess I don’t know what you’ve heard about the drive to Alaska. Let’s go with this instead: if you’ve heard that the drive to Alaska is mile after mile of astonishingly beautiful scenery that seems too enormous and perfect to exist in real life, then what you’ve heard is true.

Especially once you hit Yukon. I have so many photos of this drive that I promise you’re hoping I never show up at your house for a slide show. Because it would take longer to show you all the gorgeous scenery and tell the stories than it took to drive through it. But here are a few of my favorites.

IMG_8179

IMG_8221

IMG_8232

IMG_8212.jpg

IMG_8368 (1).jpg

IMG_8376.jpg

IMG_8434

IMG_8440

IMG_8442

IMG_8522

Right??

If you make the drive, be sure to multiply your estimated drive time by 2 to account for all the stoping and staring you’ll be doing.

IMG_8302

The beauty didn’t stop once we hit Alaska, of course. We went to Valdez, where we’d been told the best fishing awaited us. You’ll just have to believe me when I tell you that I caught a fish on my very first cast, and then caught two more before Andy had even finished attaching his lure! (In all fairness, he’d gallantly put mine on first, which is why I was fishing already. But it just goes to show you how good the fishing is in Valdez!) We estimate that we caught 25 fish—dollys and humpys. We kept two to bring with us and released the rest, not because we didn’t want them, but we just didn’t have any room left in the fridge after all the fish we caught in Haines. A fine problem to have, it’s true.

IMG_8563

IMG_8566

IMG_8651

From Valdez, we took a very early ferry over to Whittier. As we drank our coffee and admired the ocean, the fog made the horizon completely disappear, which was lovely.

IMG_8746

As the sun rose, a chubby little porcupine came out of the bushes and delighted everyone in the ferry line.

IMG_8721

The Valdez-Whittier trip is about 4.5 hours, and so beautiful that even though it got chilly we stayed posted up on the deck under our blankets for most of the ride.

IMG_8740

Once we arrived in Whittier, we drove straight on to Anchorage. We had so much fun visiting friends while we were there that I’ll make a separate post to cover all those adventures.

For now, I’ll make the title of the post accurate with the following pictures of Gracie cleaning her tail.

IMG_8794

IMG_8799

IMG_8802

 

 

The Road to Alaska – Part 3: New Aiyansh, Stewart, & Hyder

Holy cow, you guys.

We knew before we began the drive through Canada to Alaska that it was going to be beautiful, but somehow we weren’t even prepared for how majestic this part of the world is!

IMG_7152

 

IMG_6885

Every new place we go, we just look at each other, wide-eyed, and laugh out loud in amazement that we’re getting to see all this.

One of my favorite spots yet was the next stop on our map after leaving Stewart. New Aiyansh, BC and the other neighboring villages of Nisga’a are so beautiful that I can’t possibly do it any justice with words. And believe me when I say that I’ve been trying! Even when we were there, both of us were more quiet than usual.

A volcano eruption in the 18th century left the area covered in lava rock, which now is blanketed in dozens of different varieties of moss, ferns and little succulents. And the pools of water scattered around the lava fields are a perfectly clear aquamarine color that felt like something out of a fairy tale.

IMG_6903

IMG_6920

IMG_6910

The Drowned Forest was a favorite stop for me.

IMG_6927

 

IMG_6956

A neighboring village has a bouncy suspension bridge spanning the Nass River, so we crossed it and I quickly admired the view as I hurried to the other side. Andy, of course, loved it!

IMG_6965

IMG_6996

Vetter Falls was a rainforest wonderland, and we walked out as far as we could to see if we could spot the “phantom fish”—steelhead that get trapped at the falls and develop snake-like bodies with large heads—but they lived up to their name.

IMG_7029

Andy tried very, very hard though. So you have to give him credit.

IMG_7035

IMG_7042

We stayed the night at a lake near Cranberry Junction, which had a name but will now just be known as “mosquito lake” in our memory. It was a gorgeous spot for a feeding frenzy though!

IMG_7087

IMG_7107

IMG_7116

IMG_7120

Although staying indoors to escape mosquitos has its advantages.

IMG_6873

The next day, we drove to Stewart, BC, which took us five times as long as it would have had we not stopped every half mile to marvel at the mountains, glaciers, and waterfalls.

IMG_7142

IMG_7145

IMG_7196.jpg

IMG_7211

Right next door to Stewart is a little town called Hyder. . . Alaska! They’re minutes away from one another, and have a very similar vibe; they’re just separated by a border agent on the BC side.

IMG_7215

A local tradition is to get “hyderized” at the Glacier Inn, so we did. A bracing shot of Everclear later, we had our official cards!

The next day, one of the locals we’d met found us and invited us out for a day of fishing on their boat! We had a phenomenal time, especially considering the weather was clear and sunny so we could venture out on the speed boat to explore, fish and pick wild blueberries.

IMG_7281

IMG_7243

IMG_7259

IMG_7270

IMG_7279

There were other perks as well:

IMG_7347

It was such a treat and we’re so grateful we got to join! Thanks again, Kim and David!

After we left the dock that evening, we drove up to the Salmon Glacier, the fifth largest glacier in Canada. Because the sun doesn’t set until 11 p.m. around here this time of year, we had plenty of time to drive up and stop for photos along the way.

IMG_7364

IMG_7371

IMG_7382

IMG_7387

IMG_7391

IMG_7396

IMG_7399

We found a great lookout to stop for the night, and watched the sun set behind the mountains.

IMG_7424

The view from our front yard when we woke up the next day was pretty incredible!

IMG_7451

We even had friendly neighbors!

IMG_7435

Scout and I took a little walk while Andy made coffee.

IMG_7446

I love our morning coffee views these days.

We drove back down the mountain to Stewart, where we got our fishing licenses and headed out to the dock to see if we could catch a few crabs. We had great luck catching crabs, but for a little while it seemed like the only crabs in the water were females! We met a local who was also crabbing from the dock and enjoyed hanging out with him while we all released the ladies back into the ocean. By the time he had to go he’d caught a number of prawns, which he gifted to us. We were totally thrilled. I’ve never had fresh prawns before, so it was generous and very much appreciated! Thanks again, Tim! 🙂

Well, I have more tales to tell and I’m not nearly caught up all the way yet, but I just looked at the time and it’s almost grizzly bear feeding time here in Haines, and we want to see more bears!

Yes, I said more! Spoiler alert:

IMG_7580

The Black Hills of South Dakota: Actually Quite Green

We left Spearfish last Friday feeling excited to explore the Black Hills, our list of recommended hikes in hand and a warm and sunny weekend weather forecast displayed on our phones. On our way out of town we stopped for lunch at Barbacoa’s, a tasty Mexican spot downtown. It’s set up like a Qdoba or Taco Del Mar, with a build-your-own style ingredients bar, but it’s way, way better. Super fresh ingredients, good daily specials, and the staff there is so legitimately friendly and helpful that we talk about it during our meal every time we go there!

As we sat on the patio eating our steak tacos, the clouds started rolling in.

IMG_0708

We commented on how dense and beautiful the clouds are in South Dakota, then loaded up and headed into the Black Hills.

IMG_0712

The drive is stunning, with tall, dramatic rock walls and lush green trees. And if Scout is to be believed, the smells are worth trampling your mother in order to get your face one inch farther out the window.

We decided to start with a hike to Devil’s Bathtub. It isn’t marked, so you just turn off onto Cleopatra Pl. just south of Bridal Veil Falls. From the small parking area, you cross the bridge and then follow the trails directly on the other side. There are a number of trails, but we found that you can take whichever you prefer; they all lead to Devil’s Bathtub. We were told that much of the hike traverses the stream, so we strapped on our Chacos and looked forward to a nice cool hike on a sunny day!

I think the earlier mention of the clouds was sufficient foreshadowing to give away what happened next. As we started into the woods, it started raining!

IMG_0755

And it rained the whole hike through, with continuous thunder and off-and-on hailstorms. Not a big deal, but pretty funny considering how perfect the hike is for hot days! Luckily, it was still warm and the hike is easy, so it didn’t interfere with our plans at all. It actually made for a very “enchanted forest” ambiance, which I enjoyed very much.

IMG_0773IMG_0720IMG_0734IMG_0737

As you near the little falls, you come to a beautiful corridor with layered limestone walls. If it had been a warmer day, we could have spent a fair amount of time right there, wading around and enjoying the view.

IMG_0744IMG_0754IMG_0769IMG_0770

By the time we reached Devil’s Bathtub, we were soaked through! There’s a little overhang next to the waterfall that we stood under to take pictures, then we waded out into the shallow water and splashed around with Scout.

IMG_0809IMG_0777IMG_0795IMG_0798IMG_0829IMG_0831

It’s a wonderful hike that I highly recommend to anyone traveling through the Black Hills! Next time, we’ll pack a lunch and spend the day there, weather permitting.

By the time we returned to the Turtle all three of us were drenched, and after drying off and wringing out the dog, we decided to skip the other hikes on our list as the thunderstorm was still booming along. We drove into Lead just as another impressive hailstorm was wrapping up.

IMG_0846

Our cancelled hiking plans left us with some extra time to kill, so we stopped into Dakota Shivers Brewing for a beer. What a cozy little spot in a cozy little town! While it continued to rain, we chatted with a local who had identified us as the occupants of the crazy blue Turtle parked out front. She was charming and fun to talk to, and gave us lots of great travel destinations for our next trip through the Black Hills. So nice!

That night, we parked at a quiet secluded spot on a Forest Service road. Hooray for free camping! As we made our coffee the next morning, Scout and Gracie ran around outside and surveyed our spot.

IMG_0849IMG_0865

It was decided by the committee that we could happily stay in that very spot for the allowed 14-day maximum. But we had to remind ourselves that we generally feel that way about our camping spots, and that our plan to make it to the Badlands by Sunday would make leaving worthwhile.

So off we drove toward Badlands National Park!