what to do

3 Months in Baja: San Felipe to Bahía de los Ángeles

This is the story about all Andy’s dreams coming true.

Well, maybe not all of them, but a lot of them. And awesome ones.

We’d spent our first week in Baja enjoying the quiet beach site outside of San Felipe with our friends Gary and Kiki, who were also planning on heading south down the peninsula, and neighbors Stashik and Dorota who were on their way back up to their home in Canada. We’d gotten a lot of great advice from the group, like “get money from the ATM before you’re completely out of pesos, because nobody takes credit cards and the ATM’s regularly run out of cash” and “bring the meat you purchase at Calimax to the lady with the grill outside, who will BBQ it for free and even add potatoes and onions to the mix.” We heeded their advice—useful and delicious.

The other tip we got was “although it looks like a much longer route to Bahía de los Ángeles, go back up north via Mex 3 to Ensenada and then south again on Mex 1. . . definitely do not take the Mex 5.” The Mex 5 is a construction site of a highway—dirt roads, potholes, huge jutting rocks, steep grades, unmarked routes, and completely inappropriate for a 2WD van-house. People regularly pop tires, break axles, and puncture oil pans on that stretch of so-called road that ends at the intersection of Mex 1.

Followers of this blog will be unsurprised that we did not heed that particular piece of advice.

From San Felipe to Puertecitos the road is paved, but still quite torn up and punctuated by deep ruts and potholes. Then after Puertecitos the pavement ends and the 131 km of excitement begins. We jolted back and forth, side to side, our bobble heads bouncing around as we slowly lurched down the dusty road. The Turtle began to protest, making new sounds that prompted a few pull-overs, but resulting in nothing more serious than some photo ops.

Some of the construction areas were relatively flat and comfortable.

I took a video during a smoother part of the drive, when I was able to hold my phone without dropping it, and the quality was such that it wouldn’t make the viewer seasick.

(For the record, we had more than 12 km to go at that point. But tiny hand-painted signs on rocks can be misleading.)

Those of you familiar with this stretch of road will wonder if we stopped at Coco’s Corner, a super-popular tourist stop that even has a “historical place” icon on Google maps. Suffice it to say, that place may have been a great stop in its heyday but was a little depressing when we visited, with dusty undergarments covering the walls and a sullen Coco mumbling about the old days through a tiny window we had to crouch to see through. We didn’t stick around long, but upon our arrival we did meet a fun group of American travelers who were just departing, also on their way to Bahía de los Ángeles, and they invited us to watch the Super Bowl with them that Sunday. We got the location and said we’d be there!

After about six total brain-rattling hours, we finally made it to Mex 1 and cheered when we saw pavement! Andy just loves off-roading and seeing what our little Turtle is capable of, so he was very pleased that we made it without incident. The drive had taken even longer than we’d accounted for, so by the time we rolled into Bahía de los Ángeles, the sun was just beginning to set.

We found a nice little beach spot on iOverlander and parked by the water to watch the show.

Another van was parked there, and as the sun set we met its owner Lirón, a nice young guy from Israel who was also taking a few months to travel around Baja and then beyond. We made a camp fire, and talked about all the available shellfish in the area. Lirón had never tried any at all, so we all walked down to the water and harvested a bucket full of the biggest mussels any of us had ever seen!

We cleaned them, rigged up a little grill, and set them on the fire to cook.

Once they popped open, we took them off the grill, opened them up, and added either garlic butter or a tasty Thai chili paste mixture we whipped up in the Turtle.

The evening was warm, the beers were cold, the mussels were rich and delicious, and it was a really memorable travel experience with a new friend.

The next morning we parted ways with tentative plans to camp in same spot that night, and Andy and I drove back into Bahía to see the sights. The town is a super small coastal town with a population of about 800 and very little in the way of tourism. It’s a popular spot for fishing, snorkeling, and kayaking, and in our opinion was worth the drive out of the way to visit. We stopped at a restaurant for lunch and some wispy WiFi, and as we sat on the patio facing the main drag, Andy was delighted to see a number of “Baja Bugs” driving up and down the road. He chatted with a fellow named Richard, who was admiring the Turtle as Andy admired the bug he’d arrived in, and Andy learned that the very next day was the Bahía 200!

The Bahía 200 is an annual off-road race that runs on a portion of the Baja 1000 track, starting just south of Bahía de los Ángeles and consisting of a 4-lap course. All the drivers come to town the day before the race in order to attend the pre-race inspection and celebration the prior evening, which the entire population attends with much festivity. Andy reported this all to me, gesturing excitedly with wide eyes and a huge grin, hardly able to believe our luck and accidental great timing. We adjusted our plan to park in town in order to join the party and see all the cool off-road vehicles there.

Our travel guide told us a nearby restaurant also offered beachside RV parking, and as we hopped out of the Turtle to investigate, we ran into Lirón, who had just purchased some snorkel gear. As we talked about our new plan Andy noticed the yellow bug he’d been ogling outside the restaurant as he talked to Richard, and when he saw Richard himself we all walked over to say hello.

One of the biggest lessons we’ve learned in our years of travel has been that since most people are awesome, the more we go out of our way to meet new friends, the more our experiences take on new exciting flavors and expand in directions we never could have imagined. We’ve met so many incredible people throughout our travels who are now forever a part of our tales of adventure, and sometimes we wonder how much the experience would have paled in comparison without them.

Even with that lesson in our pockets, when we walked over to say hello to Richard and company, we weren’t prepared for the odyssey of fun we were about to embark upon with this wonderful bunch of wildlings:

Enter Bernadette, (Lirón you know already), Dave, Richard, Kathi and Kathleen.

This exceptional group of friends comes down from the Bay Area to Kathi and Kathleen’s place every year for the Bahía 200, and once we introduced ourselves they adopted all three of us into their circle, invited us to park both vans in their driveway for the evening, and asked if we wanted to accompany them to the race party that evening. Their generosity was overwhelming, and continued throughout the next few days.

They were cooking up a big dinner that evening and insisted we join.

Over dinner we got to know everyone better, enjoying their stories of the Baja races, in which all members of the group had been involved in some capacity or another. Dave, Richard, Kathi, and Kathleen have all actually raced in the Bahía 200 multiple times, and they related their experiences with broken racers, running head-on into cacti, taping parts back together, scorpions, being stranded in the desert, and so on. Andy was (literally at times) on the edge of his seat with joy, being surrounded by people who not only wanted to discuss off-road racing but who totally knew their stuff and were teaching him a bunch about it too!

After the meal we walked over to the town square for the party. Many in our group admired the racers. Others talked and watched the kids run up to Kathi to collect the stickers and sweets she saved up all year to give out at the event.

There was music, food stands, people of all ages, and of course, lots of off-road racers.

If that was all we’d done, we would have left happy. But the next day was the race, and the group invited us to spend the day with them there, too. I can’t remember what we decided.

Oh, that’s right, we went!

Andy didn’t stop smiling the entire time.

Dave and Andy were the cutest buddies you ever saw, and they talked racing and gears and equipment and miles per hour and suspension all day long. Also, beer.

Dave let Andy drool all over his Baja Bug throughout the day, and Andy asked me to make sure to get both angles of the bug so he could continue looking at it later.

Then the race began!

It was such an exciting and carefree day. Those in the group who had raced in previous years enjoyed the art of spectating, and we cheered heartily for every racer as they passed.

The backdrop wasn’t bad, either.

All day long Andy just kept grinning and disbelieving his good fortune in stumbling across this event—the right place, the right time, and the right people to enjoy it with.

After the races ended, Andy picked up a commemorative shirt that even had Kathi and Kathleen’s car from the previous year’s race on the back, and the racer friends signed it for him.

We went back to the girls’ house to cook some food, and it didn’t take Scout too long to make some new friends too. The local beach dogs all loved him and he soon became absorbed in the pack. His natural wild look really helped him fit right in.

We were already on Cloud Nine when Dave offered Andy a ride in his bug. Andy was so excited he immediately abandoned the guacamole he was making in the Turtle and nearly forgot to put his shoes on as he flew out the door.

They got strapped in, put the headsets on, and off they went!

As Andy was off realizing a lifetime dream, Scout was also reaching maximum joy as a beach dog. He loved the freedom, the friends and the water so much I’m surprised he came back with us at all.

Soon Andy and Dave returned, and judging from Andy’s smile and disheveled Muppet hair, I think they had fun.

They drove on the same raceway that is a part of the Bahía 200 and the Baja 1000, cruising at nearly 80 mph! Andy still hasn’t stopped talking about it.

Dave offered to take me on a run as well, so of course I had to see what all the hype was about.

I totally get it.

We blasted down the road at 80 mph but I felt like I was rocking in a hammock. Dave is an impressively super-skilled driver, and also intuitive enough to know I’m no adrenaline junkie so he took me on the smooth dirt road and not down the crazy bumps and curves that he and Andy went on. Thanks Dave!

After we returned, the boys got to talking about our route while the rest of us relaxed and gabbed on the patio and beach.

After another delicious dinner we got ready to head back to the town square for the announcement of the Bahía 200 winner and the closing ceremonies party.

Another great time was had by all.

The next day the group had to head back to the Bay Area to prepare for the upcoming work week. Kathi and Kathleen let us use their shower before we left, and I can’t tell you how much we appreciated that, ladies! From the moment we met you all were incredibly kind and so generously brought us right into your circle without asking for a thing in return. As we tell stories of our time in Baja, you guys always come up and have become a Best Memory of our travels. THANK YOU! We hope to see you all down the road.

After our much-needed showers, we headed over to the restaurant where we’d been told a Super Bowl party would be happening, and met up there with the group we’d run into at Coco’s Corner who had invited us. It was a beautiful spot on the beach with views of the nearby islands that make the Bahía de los Ángeles coastal views so unique.

The small hotel—Raquel and Larry’s—had a cute restaurant overlooking the bay, and a crowd of about 20 had gathered to watch the Super Bowl.

Just as the game started, the power went out and the motivated group came together to get it going again, driving into town for a new generator, running cords from various locations, and ducking into the kitchen to help troubleshoot the outage to the pizza oven. Andy was pleased that he was able to contribute a few extension cords and some electrical advice to the cause, and soon both the TV and the oven were back in action and we all enjoyed the resulting game and homemade pizzas.

The next morning we drove the short distance to a beach just outside of town called La Gringa. We spent a few days there, enjoying the rocky coast, the bird watching, the breezy hikes, and best of all, the clam-digging!

After a few days we decided to get back on the road. We had lunch at Guillermo’s on the patio, where the cat Bernadette had befriended and named Rosemary came by to visit and see if we might share any shrimp.

Andy was still flying high from all the dreams that had just come true, and over lunch we reviewed all the crazy things that had happened in the last few days. We got to test to Turtle’s mettle and drive on the most wicked roads we’d seen since the Dalton Highway, we collected shellfish right from the ocean and ate it fresh on the beach, we made loads of genuinely nice friends, got to watch a Baja off-road race just five steps from the track, and rode top speed in a Baja Bug!

When we got back to the Turtle, Gracie was reviewing the route we’d mapped out that morning. (She was big enough to not mention that we’d just been sharing shrimp with another cat.)

The plan was to continue down the slow and bumpy dirt road along the coastline instead of driving back west to meet up with the Mex 1, because apparently we’re gluttons for punishment. It’s as rugged—if not more—than the Mex 5, and it’s exceedingly washboarded, far less traveled, and has a longer distance between services.

I mean, what could go wrong?

3 Months in Baja: Border Crossing to San Felipe

Since we first moved into the Turtle, an extended tour of Baja had been at the top of our travel list, though it continuously got delayed due to too much fun in the border states! We’d prepared for the trip as much as we could manage amidst other adventures—which is to say we bought the book everyone recommends for travelers driving through Mexico. It’s called the Traveler’s Guide to Mexican Camping by Mike and Terri Church, and we found it a useful resource for planning the trip. We’d recommend it for anyone planning a van or RV trip to Baja and/or mainland Mexico.

It gave us enough information to choose a border crossing that worked best for us, informed us of the crossing process and procedure, what cards we’d need to obtain after arriving, and helped us make our lists of things to do before crossing, such as buy Mexican insurance, ensure we were up to date on the required pet vaccinations, and get some pesos to have on hand, as credit cards are scarcely accepted. It has a fairly up to date list of all the campgrounds in Mexico, which is quite useful since cell service is unreliable on the peninsula, making it difficult to look up places to stay while you’re on the move.

It also recommended we stay overnight somewhere near the border so we could cross earlier in the day when there is less traffic, which was something we’d planned on doing anyway as we still had some research to do now that our Baja trip was actually on the horizon. We found a great spot in El Centro—not far from our chosen border at Calexico—that was so fabulous that we decided to stay an extra day!

The Rio Bend RV Resort was the perfect place to relax, swim, and get all the necessary pre-Baja jobs done, such as laundry, flushing tanks, using WiFi to buy insurance and get it printed at the office, dying hair, etc. (Dying hair is on the to-do list for all travelers, right?)

They have a great dog park, a golf course, a pool and hot tub, an outdoor bar by the pool with great happy hour food and drink specials, special events like the Murder Mystery dinner we attended, and a staff that was so nice we felt like regulars the first hour we were there!

We were fully refreshed and super excited the morning we drove to the border. It was about 10 a.m. when we got there, and we only had a handful of cars in line in front of us! Of course since we’re in a van—and a bizarre one at that— we expected that every time a search was possible, for us it was inevitable. Over the next few months that assumption proved true, though every search was an easy and pleasant experience, including our first one going into Mexicali. They just asked us to get out of the van so they could look around in the back, and as I held onto Scout outside, Andy gave the tour and did his best with a language barrier to tell the young guy what our plans were in Baja. It took all of five minutes and we were on the way!

It was overwhelming driving our big van into Mexicali, where we didn’t yet know what all the signs meant and traffic laws seem optional. I recommend getting the signage basics under your belt before going to Mexico, since knowing that a sign with a big “E” means “Parking” is helpful when trying to navigate through a wildly busy city trying to find an invisible Banjercito. We somehow found a place to park, found the Banjercito, got our tourist cards, and got out of town!

We drove across miles and miles of desert on our way south, laughing about the funny thing that had happened the day before.

While we were staying at the RV park, we had casually been reviewing our plan to drive straight to San Felipe as we got ready to go for a swim. Andy sat on the couch and looked at his email, and after a few minutes smiling at his phone he let me know that he’d gotten an email from our friends Gary and Kiki, who we’d met at Mesa Verde National park last year and who have also been traveling full time in their charming van named Birdie. He related that they just wanted to say hello and let us know that they had decided to spend the winter in Baja, and presently they were enjoying a lovely spot on the beach just outside of San Felipe! Holy moly! Andy wrote back to let them know that we would see them tomorrow.

And now we were on our way, knowing we’d have a place to stay next door to friends!

We got to Gary and Kiki’s spot later in the evening, and sat outside for a few hours talking about where we’d all been and where we planned to go in Baja. It was totally surreal accidentally seeing friends in Mexico, and just so much fun.

We thought we’d spend at least a few days at that spot as we acclimated to the new environment and enjoyed some time with our friends. Birdie and the Turtle looked so cute on the beach together. Animal vans unite!

On our first day there we could hardly wait to go grab a few tacos, so we drove into San Felipe and picked a spot on the malecon for some carne asada and tacos adobadas. We sat outside with a view of the ocean and devoured those tasty cheap tacos. As we’re both big-time taco lovers, we made it our personal mission to find the best tacos in Baja, a job we exuberantly embraced.

We checked out a few nearby shops and then stopped at a cute spot for a beer while we tried to memorize the pesos to dollars conversion. I got all the coins out of my wallet to look at the pesos, and we laughed at the combination of change I had on me. It was a fun reminder of all the places we’ve been.

On our way back to the campsite, we stopped at the Calimax grocery store, and as we started the Turtle to leave we had our first Mexico breakdown! I took a photo for our records as Andy successfully fixed it. (It’s funny that these events are just a quick line item any more, as opposed to a tragic tale of how our day was ruined. Andy knows his stuff!)

On our second morning in Baja I woke up wondering where I was, as is part of my normal morning routine these days. I climbed down from bed and looked out the back window to this happy view:

What a spot for a morning frisbee session!

Until we learned more about the area and the potential wildlife that could be nearby, Gracie stayed inside or came out only on a leash. Luckily there were lots of birds around for her to chatter at through the window.

She also really enjoyed the warm weather and powerful sunbeams.

We also were very pleased with the warm weather, despite the first few days of wind. I spent a lot of time on the beach with Scout, who may have been the most pleased of all of us to have the endless beach at his disposal.

We also really enjoyed catching up with Gary and Kiki, who were the most fun neighbors during our first week in Baja!

We went for beach walks, talked vans and travel (of course), enjoyed morning coffee together, and sat out overlooking the water watching the sun set.

One evening as Andy and I walked along the beach with Scout, we came across this interesting fellow:

We also ran into another interesting fellow, our friend Jordan who we’d recently met at RTR, the van meetup in Quartzite earlier that month!

He was traveling south to the mainland, and swung by San Felipe to say hello and get Andy’s assistance with some new solar panels. The more we travel, the smaller the world seems to be, and having a friend just “stop by” our campsite in Baja is now a thing.

The boys got to work wiring and affixing the panel, which was not always easy, but entertaining to watch.

We went for dinner and drinks after the job was done. Jordan introduced us to quesatacos, which are a perfect blend of carne asada and melted Mexican cheese, and became a favorite of ours throughout the trip.

We had a campfire that night while we watched Jordan’s first few YouTube videos documenting his travels. They’re hilarious and really well made, and if you want to follow his journey you can do that here:

We thought it was funny that, while we watched a part about a wood piece he’d had in the back of his truck but just removed, we were at that moment using it as fuel for the fire! So I took a picture of them side by side.

A day or two after Jordan took off for the mainland, we were still at our awesome beach overlook site when my birthday showed up! It was a most incredible day. For breakfast we had coffee and fresh Mexican pastries.

Then as I got ready for the day, there was a knock at the door and standing outside were Andy, Gary, Kiki and our other sweet neighbors Stashik and Dorota. They sang Happy Birthday to me and Stashik played a second verse on his harmonica. What a wonderful start to a special day!

I played on the beach with Scout for a while and collected sea shells.

Then Andy and I went into town for lunch. . .

Walked along the malecon. . .

And then on the way home we picked up some fireworks! We had a campfire with all four neighbors, and lit sparklers.

Then we went down to the beach and lit off some mortars, the first time my birthday was celebrated with fireworks! After the show, we went back up to the campfire and had birthday cake. Gary played some songs on his guitar, and we all told stories of our lives up north.

Then if all the festivities weren’t enough, that night was a full lunar eclipse! We all went to bed after the fire and set our alarms for 4 a.m. so we could wake up and watch the show. We had coffee and thin slices of birthday cake as we watched the moon disappear. What a day! It was all very special.

After a week at our lovely spot, we thought it was time to hit the road. There was still so much more to see! Stashik and Dorota were headed home to Canada, and Gary and Kiki had planned to stay a bit longer and then drive to their destination outside of Mulege. We all said goodbye-for-now, and Andy and I continued down the road.

We stopped for the night at a dispersed camping spot on the beach just south of Puertecitos. We got there right in time for a beautiful pastel sunset and a quick frisbee session before dark.

After the sun went down, we put our head lamps on and explored the rocky beach. We saw more sea life than some aquariums have to offer! It was super neat.

We’d also been tipped off by some locals that the beach had rock oysters, and after extensive searching in the dark we found about five of them, which Andy ate raw right on the spot. I tried one and did not enjoy it, but I do like the searching part.

The next day was another sunny morning in Baja. After coffee on the beach and some pelican watching, we hopped in the Turtle and drove further down the crazy Mex 5, bumping and lurching our way along the dirt road they call a highway that rivaled any we’ve braved before!

But that’s a whole other story.

3 Months in Baja: A Photo Snapshot

Hello everyone!

It’s been a while since our last blog post, and we’ve been busy since our adventures at RTR in Arizona last January!

We’ve spent the last three months in Baja, making our way slowly to the farthest point at Los Cabos and then back up again, doing exhaustive research on where to find the best tacos on the peninsula. (We have the reports and will be happy to share our findings at your request.)

During our travels I tried a handful times to upload pictures to the blog, but the internet down there was virtually nonexistent so a photo could take around 40 minutes to upload and we’d get impatient and put the computer aside and head to the beach. We quickly fell into the rhythms of an outdoor lifestyle without the trappings of technology, and enjoyed the absence of the distraction.

I have so much I want to share about our adventures in Baja, but for the time being I thought I’d post a whole bunch of photos—in mostly chronological order—to give a general sense of the trip. It was an experience of a lifetime, and I can’t wait to fill you in!

So there you have it! Three months of fun, lots of sunshine, a thousand seaside frisbee sessions and maybe 500 tacos later, we’re back in the U.S. and ready for whatever the road brings our way.

(Hopefully more tacos.)

Heading South: North Pole and Chicken, AK Are Real Places

After our long journey up to Deadhorse and back, we needed a few days to recover.

We decided to post up in Fairbanks for a day or two to do some laundry, resupply, see the Ice Museum, and just generally knock the dirt off of ourselves.

After a few days, we began the journey back down south which surprisingly brought us to the North Pole! Ok, not THE North Pole. But North Pole, Alaska which is as close as you can get to the real thing.

The whole town is Christmas themed year-round, from candy cane light poles to road names like “Mistletoe Drive” and “St. Nicholas Drive,” and there are resident reindeer who live next door to the Santa Claus house, where we spent some time getting in the spirit of Christmas a few months in advance.

We’d had our hearts set on seeing a huge herd of caribou in the wild while we were up north, but we made do with Santa’s reindeer. (Which we learned on this trip are the same animal—reindeer are just domesticated caribou! The more you know.) But then on our way toward Tok, AK we came across a darling mama moose and her baby, and felt very lucky indeed. They hung around right alongside the road for over ten minutes before meandering back into the trees . . . but not before they posed for this glamour shot.

The sun was setting as we neared Tok, which we’d traveled through on our way up and had stayed overnight with the dirt bike rally racers at an unused airstrip outside of town. We went back to the spot, and had the whole place to ourselves! That night we saw the best Northern Lights of the trip so far, and the next morning we raced around the track at Top Turtle Speed. I’ll let you speculate on what speed that could be, and hopefully you’re generous.

A much-needed Turtle bath afterwards helped us offload many of pounds of dirt, and we wondered if maybe we should have gone back to try the race track again to see if we could shave some time off our record. But we had more stops to go, and with the dirt highway ahead of us, we knew we were pressed for daylight.

Beyond Tok lay Chicken, Alaska: a real place that I did not make up. We got to town shortly before the one store that was still open for the season was closing for the day, so we looked around, admired how wonderful the chicken soup smelled, took some enormous chicken photos, and drove on.

The next portion of the road is a beautiful drive called “The Top of the World Highway” which was where we finally had to say farewell to Alaska as we crossed back over into Yukon once again.

We had an amazing vantage point to watch the sun set over the valleys far below.

The sky was dark as we approached Dawson City, YT, and since we hadn’t had cell service for most of the last few days, I hadn’t noticed the map showed an unexpected break in the highway until we were right on top of it.

The Yukon River divides the road right outside of Dawson City, so we got to take the Turtle on a small ferry that was luckily still operating on summer hours and ran every 15 minutes or so. Had we been two weeks later, I’m not sure what we would have done, but we took our accidental good timing and ran with it.

This actually might have been one of Andy’s favorite parts of the entire trip. He was so excited. He kept pointing ahead and telling me to look! even though I was of course looking already, but he just couldn’t help himself. It was pretty funny to be sitting in our Turtle and watching water flow by on all sides.

We spent a few days in Dawson City, a historic town full of stories of the Gold Rush and prospecting and super-tough men and women. In the interest of time, and because they haven’t made many appearances in this post, I’ll just show you a few adorable pictures of Scout and Gracie at a nice site we found for an overnight stay as we left Dawson City.

The Alaska chapter of our journey was done, but as we mapped out our progress over Tiropitas, it was clear that there was plenty of adventure ahead!

On Top of the World: Deadhorse, AK + The Arctic Ocean + An Arctic Fox

Here is what you need to know about Deadhorse, AK. It’s a small town in northernmost Alaska near the Arctic Ocean with a population that is often listed at 25-50 permanent residents. The town’s primary function is to house the workers at the Prudhoe Bay oil field, which when including the temporary workers brings the population to around 3,000. In order to house the workers, “pre-fabricated modules” (cozy!) were shipped up and put on man-made gravel pads on top of the tundra, where the workers live for the duration of their employment.

Most people work 12-hour shifts daily for two weeks straight, and then have a week off. The town has a very small airport for transporting workers at no charge, so most people fly home and back in that week. Each work camp has its own building, with different amenities from camp to camp. Some have theaters or gyms or basketball courts, but these are all housed right in the work camp building.

It’s not as if anyone would want to pass the time outside their camp anyway; the mean annual temperature is 12 degrees Fahrenheit, and even the warmest month—July—sees an average temperature of only 47 degrees! Lows in the winter are generally below -40 degrees. It’s freakin’ cold up there. Almost every parking spot in town comes with a power cord.

What this means for tourists is that after being shaken around in your vehicle like dice in a Yahtzee cup for somewhere around 18 hours, there’s not a lot going on up there to do! Well, that’s not necessarily true, but the accomodations for tourists are limited to a gas station, general store, Napa store, a handful of buffet-style cafeterias for the workers that are open to the public during limited hours, and a hotel with a little snack shop and coffee counter inside. So we did all those things on our first full day there.

The white building up there is the hotel. It didn’t look any different than the housing, General Store, or gas station and the town really doesn’t waste good money on signage.

We also came across one of my favorite wildlife sightings to date: a little arctic fox! He was just the sweetest little thing and stayed close enough for us to watch him scamper around for about 5 minutes.

There is also a tour bus that you can book 24-hours in advance (to run a security check), which will take you past the security checkpoint and up to the Arctic Ocean! They charge $70 per person, but once you get that far, you really have to go all the way, right?

We thought so. So on our third day in Deadhorse, we took the early tour through the oil fields and saw the sights on our way to the beach. There were five others on our tour: a French couple who had flown in, and a couple from upstate New York and their tour guide who had driven them up in a tricked out Ford Escape set up by the tour company specifically for the Dalton Highway drive. Their guide jokingly asked if we’d remembered our swimsuits, to which I replied, “Actually, yes!” He laughed good-naturedly, as it was the first day of September, and said he’d be amazed if we went through with it. Challenge accepted!

The beach access we were able to explore was a nice long stretch that jutted out into the ocean. When we got there, our view was especially lovely under a hazy rainbow.

The guide volunteered to take pictures for us, and got a nice play-by-play of our walk out, and Andy’s sudden and shocking dive below the water.

What a beast! That boy knows how to have an adventure. I take longer than Andy does when it comes to decisions involving plunging my bare skin into frigid arctic water on a 30-degree day. But of course I eventually got the job done.

Ok . . . half done. But I’m telling you; it was so cold that not even my five layers on top could save me from that icy shock, or the subsequent half hour of numb legs and toes! It was awesome. We are very proud new members of the Polar Bear Club, and have a pure white rock from the beach as our memento of the day we took the plunge.

By the time we got back to the Turtle, we’d warmed up under the blanket Andy had brought along and felt ready to take on the Dalton Highway again. We decided to break the drive up into three days this time, because we wanted to check another National Park off our list by hiking into Gates of the Arctic.

We turned southward and said farewell to Deadhorse. We were so glad we made the trip, but are fairly certain we won’t be returning unless Andy will agree with my brilliant idea to build a summer home there. And so far he’s not budging. Oh well . . . goodbye, Deadhorse!

	Blue Turtle Crossing on 3 Months in Baja: San Felipe t…
	Blue Turtle Crossing on 3 Months in Baja: San Felipe t…
	Blue Turtle Crossing on 3 Months in Baja: San Felipe t…
	Kevin Wood on 3 Months in Baja: San Felipe t…
	Don Herington on 3 Months in Baja: San Felipe t…